Thanksgiving...The Classic Pumpkin Pie

Now that Halloween is over, we can start worrying about Thanksgiving.  Even if you have a relatively small family, the problem is always the same...the venue and the participants!  When my children were little, it was great, we went to my mother's and that was the end of that.  Now that some of them are married and have families of their own or live far away, it is always a hassle.  The one thing that is for certain, as far as I'm concerned, is the menu.   That is what I like the most about this holiday...no surprises on that front, except for a few variations, from time to time. And  no choices, except when it comes to the pies...

 I am always surprised at how many people, faced with the choice of apple, pumpkin or pecan pie, will more often than not choose the apple pie.  Why?? You can have apple all year long, pecan as well, but pumpkin! To me, pumpkin pie, next  to the turkey, is the essence of Thanksgiving. 

The poor pies never get the respect and attention they deserve.  Let's face it, we are so stuffed and comatose after the meal that nobody wants to hear about pie.  The whole thing is a cardiac arrest waiting to happen. Think about it...it's all carbs, except for the little pieces of turkey that are the excuse for everything else. I, for one, could do without the turkey and just concentrate on the side dishes and dessert.  I usually do!

 This time, I am giving the pies the respect they deserve.  They are first on the lineup so you'll have plenty of time to think about them.  By the way,  no apple pie in this lineup... that's for another day!

The perfect pie begins with the perfect crust—one that is tender and flaky. Cutting the butter into the flour mixture is a key step. The butter must be cold and hard; if it warms up and softens, the flour will absorb it, become sticky and yield a dense, tough crust. I recommend mixing the ingredients in a food processor. It allows you to work quickly so the butter doesn't have a chance to soften. And by running the machine in short pulses, the processor won't heat up and melt the butter.

This year I have tons of fresh pumpkin puree waiting in the freezer.  As a matter of fact, I already have the pie filling also frozen and ready to go.  That way one of the desserts is out of the way and now all I have to decide is whether to bake pecan OR chocolate pecan pie for a second dessert.  What a dilemma!


Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 tsp. salt

3 tsp. sugar

12 Tbs. (1 1/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter,

cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 1/2 to 6 Tbs. ice water

1 egg, lightly beaten

For the filling:

2 1/2 cups pumpkin puree (from about 1 1/2 cans, each 15 oz.) or fresh 

3/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp. salt

1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground ginger

1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 tsp. ground cloves

3 whole eggs plus 2 egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream

1/3 cup milk

1 1/4 tsp. vanilla extract

1 Tbs. brandy

Lightly sweetened whipped cream for serving


Directions:

To make the dough, in the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, salt and sugar and pulse to blend. Add the butter and process in short pulses until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 3 Tbs. of the ice water and pulse twice. The dough should hold together when squeezed with your fingers but should not be sticky. If it is crumbly, add more water, 1 tsp. at a time, pulsing twice after each addition.

Turn the dough out onto a work surface. Cut off one-third of the dough and shape into a disk. Shape the remaining two-thirds of the dough into a disk. Wrap the disks separately with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Position a rack in the lower third of an oven. Place a cookie sheet on the rack. Preheat to 400°F.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let stand for 5 minutes. Place the large dough disk between 2 sheets of lightly floured waxed paper and roll out into a 12-inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Brush off the excess flour. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch Emile Henry deep-dish pie dish and fit the dough into the dish. Trim the edges, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang. Fold under the excess dough and, using your thumb, decoratively flute the edges. Using a fork, gently poke holes in several places on the bottom of the crust.

Place the small dough disk between the same 2 sheets of waxed paper, flouring the paper if needed, and roll out the dough to 1/8 inch thick. Using a 1 1/2-inch leaf cutter, cut out about 32 small leaves. Using the back of a paring knife, score leaf veins on each cutout. Brush the edges of the pie crust with the beaten egg, then arrange the leaves on the edges. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for 15 minutes.

Line the pie crust with parchment paper or aluminum foil and fill with pie weights. Place the pie dish on the preheated cookie sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the parchment and weights and bake until the crust is light golden brown, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F.

Meanwhile, make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, brown sugar and granulated sugar. Add the flour, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves and whisk until smooth. Add the eggs and egg yolks and whisk until combined. Add the cream, milk, vanilla and brandy and whisk until smooth. Pour the filling into the cooled pie crust.

Place the pie dish on the preheated cookie sheet. Bake until the filling is set, about 1 hour and 15 minutes, covering the edges of the crust with foil if they get too brown. Transfer the pie dish to the wire rack and let the pie cool completely, about 4 hours, before serving. Accompany each slice with a dollop of whipped cream.

Serves 8 to 10.



Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Kitchen.

Martin Yan's Cashew Chicken

There's a Chinese restaurant and takeout in New York City called Pig Heaven.  It is to me, the best takeout on the East Coast.   I have never eaten at the restaurant, but have been ordering out since 1986.  I have always meant to eat there but why bother when I can have such marvelous Chinese in the comforts of my home.

One of my best friends, who still lives in NYC, laughs when I come to visit her. She knows on my first night in town, dinner is always takeout from Pig Heaven and always the same thing, Cashew Chicken and Orange Beef.  I once tried something else, can't remember what, but it wasn't the same.  It is a fantastic combination, and I'm lucky my friend also agrees!

Miami, in spite of what some people may think, doesn't really have a great takeout or restaurant.  Yes Mr. Chow has opened on the Beach, but who wants to go through all the hassle and pay such horrendous prices.  That defeats the whole purpose of Chinese on a Sunday night.  So, as I mentioned before, I have armed myself with a wok, and various cookbooks and tackled Chinese cuisine!

Martin Yan is one of my favorite authors.  Not only are his dishes delicious and quick but he lays out each recipe in a very simple manner.  Once you make one or two, you understand the mindset.  With Chinese, it's all about preparation, for the actual cooking really takes no time at all.  You chop the ingredients, make a sauce, stir fry separately, first meats, then vegetables, add the sauce, combine and you are done.  There really is no reason to be intimidated by it and it is not as complicated or time consuming as you think.  If you have a wonderful takeout near you, don't bother, but if you don't read on!

This popular dish, probably number one for Chinese take-out, is easily mastered at home. My preference is to use unsalted cashews. If your market doesn't stock them, reduce the soy sauce to compensate for the salt. I've made this recipe many, many times.  Don't leave out or add anything...it's terrific!


Ingredients

 MARINADE:

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine OR dry sherry

2 teaspoons cornstarch



CHICKEN:

3/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons minced ginger

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 small onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water

1/2 cup roasted cashews OR blanched almonds, toasted


Instructions

Combine all marinade ingredients in a bowl.

Cut chicken into 1/2-inch cubes. Add chicken to marinade and stir to coat. Let stand 10 minutes.

Place a wok over high heat until hot. Add vegetable oil, swirling to coat sides. Add ginger and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add chicken and stir-fry 2 minutes.

Add onion, red pepper, zucchini and broth. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender-crisp, about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce, sesame oil and sugar. Mix well. Add cornstarch solution and cook, stirring, until sauce boils and thickens. Add nuts and mix well. Makes 4 servings.

Note:  His recipe gives you the option to use almonds...I wouldn't.  Maybe later on when you want a variation ; but the combination of these ingredients with the cashews is too perfect for words!  I also prefer the wine to the sherry for a more authentic taste.  It is found in the Chinese section of most supermarkets.

Tracking my Jardale Pumpkin from the Farm to the Table - Pumpkin Spice Bread With Walnuts

The beautiful Jardale pumpkin which my friends at the pumpkin farm gave me a few days ago is now pumpkin pie and Pumpkin Spice Bread!  I can't believe I did it but I roasted the pumpkin yesterday, strained it, drained it and froze it for a later use, just like my friend Patti Londre recommended!  All in all, I got 4 Cups of pumpkin flesh, 2 1/2 for the pie and 11/2 Cups for the bread.  I did follow their advice and mixed the pie filling before I froze it, that way I won't have much to do before I serve it on Thanksgiving.

The pumpkin bread was a cinch and a welcomed addition to my afternoon tea.  By the way, it gets better and better everyday that goes by.

Before it went in the oven---look at the beautiful orange color!

and the contrast with the blue- gray of the skin

After they came out of the oven

After mashing...look at the water in the bottom!

the end result just after it came out of the oven

cooling on the window sill

just couldn't wait to try!

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups (210g) flour

1/2 teaspoon of salt

1 cup (200 g) sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup (1/4 L) pumpkin purée*

1/2 cup (1 dL) vegetable oil

2 eggs, beaten

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1/2 cup (1 dL) chopped walnuts or almonds*



* To make pumpkin purée, cut a pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and stringy stuff, lie face down on a foil or Silpat lined baking sheet. Bake at 350°F until soft, about 45 min to an hour. Cool, scoop out the flesh. Drain on top of a colander for a couple of hours. Freeze whatever you don't use for future use.



Procedure

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Sift together the flour, salt, sugar, and baking soda.

2 Mix the pumpkin, oil, eggs, 1/4 cup of water, and spices together, then combine with the dry ingredients, but do not mix too thoroughly. Stir in the nuts.

3 Pour into a well-buttered 9x5x3 inch loaf pan. Bake 50-60 minutes until a thin skewer poked in the very center of the loaf comes out clean. Turn out of the pan and let cool on a rack.

*This time I used almonds

Makes one loaf. Can easily double the recipe.

Set the House on Fire With Apple Fritters!

In the mid 60's, my mother set the house on fire making apple fritters.  Really, almost to the ground.  Needless to say, she hasn't made them ever since.  One night she left the frying pan on while she went down to take some to my grandmother and forgot all about it.  We ended up living in a hotel for the next 3 months!  First we lost all our things when we left Cuba, then we lost whatever we had managed to bring out, including our miniature Pinscher, Red, who went back to the house looking for her. You can't ever bring the subject up when she's around; but last night, I finally succeeded in getting the recipe out of her.

This year she is coming for Christmas and I think I will surprise her with some...or maybe not.  I do want to start off on the right foot and forty years might not be enough time....

I am really sorry that it has been off our repertoire,  for it is the kind of recipe that delights everybody, particularly children.  At home we usually served them as a side dish, especially if we were having roast pork or chops.

I have such an abundance of apples from our trip to the Kinsey Farm that tomorrow is going to be apple day...homemade apple sauce for my granddaughter and apple fritters for the rest of us kids! 

Yield:  About 32 fritters

Ingredients

1 cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup cold beer (not dark)

10 cups vegetable oil

2 apples (1 lb), peeled, cored, and sliced n 1/4 inch thick round slices

Confectioners or regular sugar for dusting


Preparation

Stir together flour, granulated sugar, and salt, then add beer and whisk to combine. Heat oil in a 5-quart heavy pot until thermometer registers 375°F.

Dip apple slices in batter, shaking off excess, and fry, about 8 at a time, until golden, about 1 1/2 minutes on each side. Transfer fritters with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Serve warm, dusted with confectioners or regular sugar and don't forget to turn off the stove!

Fancy Leftovers... Polenta Fries With Marinara Sauce

If you have been subscribed since the beginning, you know by now that I am a big fan of leftover meals.  By that I don't mean reheat and serve the same thing the following night.  Uh uh, I mean redress into something as good or even better.  The last recipe I posted was for creamy polenta.  If you refrigerated or froze the leftovers you are ahead of the game; and if you happen to have frozen some marinara sauce when you last made it, well, this recipe is a walk on the beach!  For those of you who didn't, you can still make this, just plan ahead two hours which is the time it will take for the polenta to firm up in the fridge.

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients

3 cups Basic Polenta, recipe follows

Flour for dusting
2 cups olive oil, for frying
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Salt

1 cup  Marinara Sauce

Directions

Lightly oil an 11 by 7-inch baking dish. Transfer the hot polenta to the prepared baking dish, spreading evenly to 3/4-inch thick. Refrigerate until cold and firm, about 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F.

Cut the polenta into 2 by 1-inch pieces. Dust lightly with flour. Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry the polenta pieces until golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Using tongs, transfer the polenta pieces to paper towels and drain. Place the polenta pieces on a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Transfer the polenta pieces to a serving platter. Sprinkle the polenta with the Parmesan cheese and salt. Serve, passing the marinara sauce alongside.



Basic Polenta:

6 cups chicken bouillon

1 teaspoons salt

1 tsp. rosemary

1 3/4 cups yellow cornmeal

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 Cup shredded Parmigiano Reggiano

Bring 6 cups of beef or chicken bouillon to a boil in a heavy large saucepan. Add 1 teaspoons of salt, and 1 tsp of rosemary. Gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the mixture thickens and the cornmeal is tender, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the butter, the cheese and stir until melted.

Note:  Polenta also comes ready made in tubes found in the Italian section of your supermarket.  They are pretty good.  In that case serve the fried rounds in plates wih forks and spoon some sauce on top and sides.

Halloween Table and Menus Of Times Gone By

Halloween has always been, after Christmas, my most favorite holiday to entertain.  In years past, I did a lot of entertaining and prided myself in setting a beautiful table.  I think I thought of myself as the next Carolyne Roehm, my hero!

 I don't know how I packed so much stuff in my apartment.  There were plates and glasses and tablecloths and flower arrangements hidden all over the place!  I had quite a large archive in my brain of where everything was.  Now, as I unpack in a much larger house, I wonder how I ever did it. I don't entertain like that anymore, just don't have the stamina, or the money, for that matter.  Maybe now that I live with my daughter, the artist, I will get a second wind, but for the time being, here are some of the memories:

For the pumpkin, I usually called a kid, a nephew, a niece, a neighbor, anybody to carve the pumpkin.  Then I started to build from that. On that particular year, I was gaga over my black candles, and I was debuting my new china in orange tones I had literally carried from Gien, France.  Some raffia ribbons, lots of goodies from Marshall's, some old silver, and orange and black M&Ms  in little Halloween clay pots and poof! magic!

The menu was French (my idea of being quirky), and every year I invited only 8 people.  Small, intimate, sit down and easy to cook for. No costumes or funny drinks!  But yes, place cards, and  menu cards staggered around the table.  Champagne with cocktails for those who liked it and a good French wine with the main course.  In those days, with the dollar almost at par with the euro, it was affordable to do so.  Nowadays, it's prohibitive and a little ostentatious, if not politically incorrect!

HALLOWEEN 1998

Creme de Potiron

(Creamy Butternut Squash Soup)

Breast of Duck with Corn Cake

And Spinach Puree

Munster Avec Confiture d' Eglantine

Warm Chocolate Tart Jean Georges

That year I had gone to Alsace and come back loaded with confiture d'eglantine, a jam typical and only found in Alsace..  I really can't describe or translate eglantine, nobody, for that matter, can!.  It;s a small red fruit, not terribly sweet, loaded in vitamin C.  The taste is very hard to descibe, the only thing I can compare it to is guava...same color, but a totally different fuit.  At the hotel where we stayed, they served it with the cheese course which, in that region HAD to be Munster.  Here is a clip of eglantine confiture, in French but easy to follow.

Another year, 2002, I had just come back from Normandy and Brittany so Halloween was spent "in Normandy"

HALLOWEEN 2002

Terrine de Coquilles Saint-Jacques

Sauce Pernod

Soupe au Marrons

Creme Fraiche

Cailles Aux Figues Fraiches et Au Miel 

Puree de Poireaux

Tarte Chaude aux Pommes

Once I get settled in I will try to post some of these recipes, if I can remember the source!

Creamy Polenta With Parmigiano, Parsley and Rosemary Leaves

This is the basic polenta recipe I make except when I serve it with the Braised Short Ribs.  In that case, I omit the rosemary. The ribs already have it, so why gild the lily. You can substitute other cheeses, such as Gorgonzola, and other herbs, such as Herbes de Provence. I try to make enough to have lefovers so I can refrigerate them and make fried polenta the next day, usually with the leftover ribs. It also freezes beautifully for future meals.


Ingredients

6 cups light beef bouillon
1 teaspoons salt
1 3/4 cups yellow cornmeal
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
3/4 cup whole milk
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Bring the water to a boil in a heavy large saucepan. Add 2 teaspoons of salt. Gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the mixture thickens and the cornmeal is tender, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Add the cheese, milk, butter, parsley, rosemary, and pepper, and stir until the butter and cheese melt. Transfer the polenta to a bowl and serve.